Mac Mini Setup #191
Replies: 34 comments 56 replies
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Late 2012 Mac Mini is a masterpiece of engineering made by people for people, anyone who loves silence & good performance or had opportunity to disassembly it appreciates it. BTW probably I've found very cheap substitute for Rpi but I'm waiting for my order from China to arrive. But it won't be as powerful and capable as Rpi or Mac.
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Thank you so much for the reply! I can't wait to dive in and play around with these awesome tools. May I reply here if I have more questions? I appreciate your dedication to this awesome platform. |
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Of course :) We will try to help if we can. |
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Sorry to bug you. I'm pretty savvy with audio/video, but electronic engineering is not my strength. There is a step in the process I'm not understanding. From what I can understand, esp32 and CH9102x are some kind of board that communicates with the Mac Mini/HyperHDR and relays data to the LEDs. But, I'm confused about how to hook it up and what exactly to look for when purchasing. Other than that, is this the correct setup? Thank you for your responses! I understand you are busy and I appreciate the help! |
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Your diagram looks good. You need:
You need also standard "common ground": the ground of the ESP32 (from its pinout) should be connected to the "minus" from the LED strip power supply, that is also connected to the "minus" of the LED strip. Without it very bad things could happen. |
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If I could please ask a couple more questions? I appreciate learning about all this! Is it possible to buy the ESP32 with CP2102N or does it need to be CP2104 or CH9102? For example, would this work? Do you happen to know what software I can use with MAC to flash the ESP32? From what I understand, a level shifter takes the voltage and changes it to a different level to make it compatible. So, it's taking the ESP32's 3.3v to the LEDs 5v, correct? Is that built into the ESP32 card or is it something I need to purchase? 🙏🙏🙏 Thank you!!! 🙏🙏🙏 |
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Technically CP2102N should be able to achieve 2Mb serial port speed. Otherwise any of HyperSerial firmware won't work. But... I haven't tested it and no user has reported any update about that chip either, so nobody will guarantee it will work. I know that esphome-flasher has a version for macOS but I didn't test it. ESP in our project is just a controller using 3.3V GPIO and that's why level shifter (3.3V ESP to 5V LED) must be purchased or DIY like in the above links. |
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I think I’m confused about what you said here then: “ You need also standard "common ground": the ground of the ESP32 (from its pinout) should be connected to the "minus" from the LED strip power supply, that is also connected to the "minus" of the LED strip. Without it very bad things could happen.” Is the LED strip power supply not the Made Well power unit? |
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From typical LED power supply there are only two output: plus and minus only. Ground provided for LED power supply is used only for its own protection mechanism (usually it's grounding metal case also). And you connect its plus/minus to the LED strip. But usually the device from which data line is connected to the LED strip, has it's own power supply. So the data signal that it provides is related to ground of that device, not the ground that LED strip has (because it has "GND" which is minus from LED power supply). In best case scenario setup without common ground won't work stable (chip in the LED won't decode the signal). In worst: the current will start to flow using ways that it should not use and could damage the equipment usually LED or ESP/Rpi pinout. There are some such closed power supplies in 8-10A range from TDK or Meanwell but don't know if available in your region. Or you can try to use generic closed 5v 10A power supply from China hopping that it can provide half of its rating, that is always a lottery but for small setups it should work. |
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Thank you for all of this. I'm going to get my diagram all sorted out and try this again. I appreciate your help! I just sponsored you on GitHub as a token of my thanks. |
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Thank you :) It's a complicated project to get it right so take your time. Fortunately, it's usually a one-time process ... unless you replace your TV with a bigger one ;) |
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You’re very welcome. Yes, it’s complicated. And especially for me who loves to work with audio/visual components, but knows nothing about electrical engineering. 😬 After this, I don’t think I’ll change my TV for a while! |
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By the way, you can consider using a wooden or any other frame in your project as described in my blog. I use bought pre-made large picture frames. It is not always applicable (wall and ceiling brackets for the TV make it difficult), but otherwise it is easier to build, modify the LED strip angle towards the wall, mount (TV back-plate is not a flat surface) or replace a broken LED ... and you can always upgrade the TV of the same size ;) |
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Yeah, that’s smart. I like the frame you made in your build. That way you can move closer to or further from the wall to get the right effect. And yes, it seems like the build would be much easier on a frame away from the TV to start. I also got a plastic project box to house all the electrical components. |
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@awawa-dev Hi, it's me again! I'm slowly inching along in this project. My ESP32 board finally came and it seems like it flashed okay, but then I have all these "invalid header" messages at the end of the log. Should I continue with my setup, or will this board not work? Thanks for your help! Using '/dev/cu.usbmodem14201' as serial port. Chip Info:
Leaving... Showing logs: |
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Hi But first you need to put your ESP32 board into download mode, otherwise esphome-flasher won't be able to flash or detect it. |
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Maybe your board come without the bootloader also. You can read about it here: https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-binary/ |
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I ended up ordering this (ESP32-S3-DevKitC-1-N8 - ESP32-S3-WROOM-1 Dev Board - 8MB Flash): I figured if I ordered from a legit distributor, I'd have less chance of getting a fake. Maybe with it being the newest board, the ESPHome Flasher isn't reading it correctly? |
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OK, I was referring to that ebay auction you posted before. I think the problem is not in esphomeflasher, but rather that board need a special firmware. And currently the board refuse to boot up at all, so need to be put in download mode. Otherwise any flashing software won't be able to detect ESP32 in your system. |
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It seems that your board is equipped with dedicated download mode button so no need for grounding GPIO 0: |
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I held down the boot button, then simultaneously hit reset. I tried ESPHome
again and got this message:
Using '/dev/cu.usbmodem12401' as serial port.
Connecting...
Detecting chip type... ESP32-S3
Connecting...
Chip Info:
- Chip Family: ESP32
- Chip Model: ESP32-S3
- Number of Cores: 1
- Max CPU Frequency: 80MHz
- Has Bluetooth: NO
- Has Embedded Flash: NO
- Has Factory-Calibrated ADC: NO
- MAC Address: 84:F7:03:C0:34:24
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Changing baud rate to 460800
Changed.
- Flash Size: 8MB
- Flash Mode: dio
- Flash Frequency: 80MHz
Erasing flash (this may take a while)...
Chip erase completed successfully in 1.2s
Flash will be erased from 0x00001000 to 0x00004fff...
Flash will be erased from 0x00008000 to 0x00008fff...
Flash will be erased from 0x0000e000 to 0x0000ffff...
Flash will be erased from 0x00010000 to 0x00050fff...
Unexpected chip id in image. Expected 9 but value was 0. Is this image for
a different chip model?
Flash params set to 0x023f
Compressed 15856 bytes to 10276...
Writing at 0x00001000... (100 %)Wrote 15856 bytes (10276 compressed) at
0x00001000 in 0.2 seconds (effective 530.8 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 3072 bytes to 144...
Writing at 0x00008000... (100 %)Wrote 3072 bytes (144 compressed) at
0x00008000 in 0.0 seconds (effective 805.1 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 8192 bytes to 47...
Writing at 0x0000e000... (100 %)Wrote 8192 bytes (47 compressed) at
0x0000e000 in 0.1 seconds (effective 1061.7 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 262880 bytes to 113931...
Writing at 0x0004a719... (100 %)Wrote 262880 bytes (113931 compressed) at
0x00010000 in 2.4 seconds (effective 861.6 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Leaving...
Hard Resetting...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...
Done! Flashing is complete!
Showing logs:
Seems successful?
…On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 10:56 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
It seems that your board is equipped with dedicated download mode button
so no need for grounding GPIO 0:
*Boot Button: Download button. Holding down Boot and then pressing Reset
initiates Firmware Download mode for downloading firmware through the
serial port.*
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We will see ;) What firmware did you use? HyperSerialESP32? |
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This is what I've got coming out of the Arduino Serial Monitor:
11:58:11.362 -> invalid header: 0ESP-ROM:esp32s3-20210327
11:58:11.362 -> Build:Mar 27 2021
11:58:11.362 -> rst:0x7 (TG0WDT_SYS_RST),boot:0x8 (SPI_FAST_FLASH_BOOT)
11:58:11.362 -> Saved PC:0x40048839
11:58:11.362 -> invalid header: 0xffffffff
This last line repeats
…On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 11:50 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
We will see ;) What firmware did you use? HyperSerialESP32?
We need to connect now to ESP to confirm it.
I prefer Arduino IDE's serial port monitor but every serial port client
should be enough. For example putty. Select proper serial port and speed
(2000000 for HyperSerialESP32). If nothing happens press reset to see if
there is some output.
[image: obraz]
<https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/69086569/152226203-660993f4-b9e3-423a-9d29-3df53f52b360.png>
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The same problem. Still not sure if it's firmware or missing bootloader. Put it into download mode again and upload WLED for s2 firmware-esp32s2_saola (extract it before flashing) https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/actions/runs/1785795633 It's fresh port for that s2 platform, maybe s3 will work too. |
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Okay, I flashed using firmware-esp32s2_saola (from the bin file, not the
bin.gz if that makes a difference). Got this message in ESPHome
Using '/dev/cu.usbmodem12401' as serial port.
Connecting...
Detecting chip type... ESP32-S3
Connecting...
Chip Info:
- Chip Family: ESP32
- Chip Model: ESP32-S3
- Number of Cores: 1
- Max CPU Frequency: 80MHz
- Has Bluetooth: NO
- Has Embedded Flash: NO
- Has Factory-Calibrated ADC: NO
- MAC Address: 84:F7:03:C0:34:24
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Changing baud rate to 460800
Changed.
- Flash Size: 8MB
- Flash Mode: qio
- Flash Frequency: 80MHz
Erasing flash (this may take a while)...
Chip erase completed successfully in 1.4s
Flash will be erased from 0x00001000 to 0x00005fff...
Flash will be erased from 0x00008000 to 0x00008fff...
Flash will be erased from 0x0000e000 to 0x0000ffff...
Flash will be erased from 0x00010000 to 0x0010cfff...
Unexpected chip id in image. Expected 9 but value was 0. Is this image for
a different chip model?
Flash params set to 0x003f
Compressed 17392 bytes to 11185...
Writing at 0x00001000... (100 %)Wrote 17392 bytes (11185 compressed) at
0x00001000 in 0.3 seconds (effective 515.2 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 3072 bytes to 144...
Writing at 0x00008000... (100 %)Wrote 3072 bytes (144 compressed) at
0x00008000 in 0.0 seconds (effective 791.1 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 8192 bytes to 47...
Writing at 0x0000e000... (100 %)Wrote 8192 bytes (47 compressed) at
0x0000e000 in 0.1 seconds (effective 1047.5 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Compressed 1034528 bytes to 727155...
Writing at 0x0010a6b4... (100 %)Wrote 1034528 bytes (727155 compressed) at
0x00010000 in 11.5 seconds (effective 717.7 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.
Leaving...
Hard Resetting...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...
Done! Flashing is complete!
Showing logs:
Serial port closed!
And then in Arduino Serial Monitor, I'm seeing this:
13:21:56.045 -> invalid header: 0ESP-ROM:esp32s3-20210327
13:21:56.045 -> Build:Mar 27 2021
13:21:56.045 -> rst:0x7 (TG0WDT_SYS_RST),boot:0x8 (SPI_FAST_FLASH_BOOT)
13:21:56.045 -> Saved PC:0x40048841
13:21:56.045 -> invalid header: 0xffffffff
Repeting.
…On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 12:39 PM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
The same problem. Still not sure if it's firmware or missing bootloader.
Put it into download mode again and upload WLED for s2
firmware-esp32s2_saola (extract it before flasshing)
https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/actions/runs/1785795633 It's fresh
port for that s2 platform, maybe s3 will work too.
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Then probably we must wait till Arduino-ESP32 will provide official support for that board (it's around a corner): espressif/arduino-esp32#5594 |
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I can get the following boards by tomorrow if any of these might work
better:
ESP32-DevKitM-1 Development Board
ESP32-DevKitM-1U Development Board
ESP32-DevKitC-DA Development Board
ESP32-PICO-DevKitM-2U Development
What do you think?
…On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 1:52 PM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
Then probably we must wait till Arduino-ESP32 will provide official
support for that board (it's around a corner):
espressif/arduino-esp32#5594
<espressif/arduino-esp32#5594>
I check it now in Arduino IDE and currently I can't select that board. The
second question is if makuna/neopixelbus library is compatible with that
board also.
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These are development boards I don't know (I'm using generic ESP32 boards). Probably as long as they belong to ESP32 line they will work, ESP32-S2/S3/C3 are completely different boards. |
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No, it's complicated & tiring process of building new setup: it's easy to make a mistake. I don't see that statistics are updated. Did you close serial monitor before running HyperHDR, and then you closed HyperHDR before running serial monitor? Only one application can have an access to the serial port at the time. On your earlier screenshot LED device is disabled: Maybe HyperHDR couldn't open the device because port was in use... verify the HyperHDR's log for red errors. |
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I changed the LED Hardware Output Path from "CP2104 USB to UART Bridge Controller" to "CP210x USB to UART Bridge Controller." I guess the firmware or whatever that is for the CP210x is working better (or is maybe actually installed on my Mac. I did download and install the driver from SilLabs for the CP210x chip. Now, I've got this! Which looks like it's working, yeah? |
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Yes, great job! You have just finished LED software & firmware configuration part. Everything is ready for connecting the LED strip. |
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Pardon the cursing, but holy shit! This is exciting! On to the next set of
problems to solve ;)
Thank you for all your help! It really is quite remarkable how available
you are and dedicated to making your ideas available to everyone. I
appreciate it very much.
…On Thu, Feb 3, 2022 at 10:31 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
Yes, great job! You have just finished LED software & firmware
configuration part. Everything is ready for connecting the LED strip.
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Do you know if there’s a very detailed guide somewhere for how to wire the
Esp32/level shifter/LEDs/power supply all together? Like, for someone who
knows nothing about electronic engineering and just wants to follow
something step by step?
…On Thu, Feb 3, 2022 at 10:32 AM Steve Yager ***@***.***> wrote:
Pardon the cursing, but holy shit! This is exciting! On to the next set of
problems to solve ;)
Thank you for all your help! It really is quite remarkable how available
you are and dedicated to making your ideas available to everyone. I
appreciate it very much.
On Thu, Feb 3, 2022 at 10:31 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
> Yes, great job! You have just finished LED software & firmware
> configuration part. Everything is ready for connecting the LED strip.
>
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I think that should help: PDF for higher resolution: |
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Yes! Thank you so much!!
…On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 3:13 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
I think that should help:
[image: sk6812_esp32 2_bb]
<https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/69086569/152519584-c49ab3b2-cb30-4ee2-b907-3b1a5e9f7d54.png>
PDF for higher resolution:
Untitled Sketch 2_bb.pdf
<https://github.com/awawa-dev/HyperHDR/files/8002521/Untitled.Sketch.2_bb.pdf>
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Amateur question… I’m I using 22 awg hookup wire for everything? Should I
use stranded or solid copper? Thank you!
…On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 7:28 AM Steve Yager ***@***.***> wrote:
Yes! Thank you so much!!
On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 3:13 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
> I think that should help:
> [image: sk6812_esp32 2_bb]
> <https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/69086569/152519584-c49ab3b2-cb30-4ee2-b907-3b1a5e9f7d54.png>
>
> PDF for higher resolution:
> Untitled Sketch 2_bb.pdf
> <https://github.com/awawa-dev/HyperHDR/files/8002521/Untitled.Sketch.2_bb.pdf>
>
> —
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Stranded cable. But I usually mix them (I find solid copper are easier to solder to connect LED segments on the frame). |
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Thanks for this! Another newbie question. If I'm just checking everything
out on a breadboard before I solder things to a perf board, does the larger
awg wire fit into the holes on the breadboard or do I join the thicker wire
to the thinner wire that's going into the breadboard? I'm assuming once I
go to actually solder everything, I can just solder the thicker wire to the
board, right?
Thanks!
…On Sat, Feb 5, 2022 at 8:15 AM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
Stranded cable. But I usually mix them (I find solid copper are easier to
solder to connect LED segments on the frame).
For segments from power supply to LED strip and between LED strip segment:
power lines +5V cables and GND are needed to be thick.
[image: obraz]
<https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/69086569/152649324-fe95f586-1b8d-4128-8aa5-2875b817b78c.png>
Since I live in EU they are differently branded but usually I choose cable
that in AWG16-AWG17 range for delivering the power. Signal cables may be
much thinner, since the their current is minimal.
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Probably thicker cables just won't fit into your breadboard (avg16-17 is around 1mm^2) so as long as it is not a LED strip power supply lines you can use thinner cables in that section (and join them with thicker LED cables at some point): |
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Beyond excited. It's working! Tested the screen capture mode on the laptop. Now to frame it! Thank you again for all your help. This is so incredibly cool! https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/81187444/152929270-ceea6340-71e4-4ead-a417-ca2c6e8bda48.MOV |
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Wow 😃 Great job! Even now, despite the assembly of many sets, I am also accompanied by a thrill if the new system will work. I hope you will enjoy using the system with TV even more. |
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Thanks!! I'll be sure to send updates as the project progresses. I imagine I'm not quite out of the woods yet either ;) Appreciate all your help! |
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Well, @awawa-dev I'm back. And not with good news. Hoping you might be able to help me! I transferred everything to perf board. I tested the continuity on all my connections with my multimeter. And before I taped it all to my frame, I decided to plug it into the computer and be sure it was all working first. This is what I'm getting with doing a HyperHDR effect pattern: IMG_1268.mp4Is it possible I fried the data pad or something? I opened up the serial monitor and I got this: Here's my wiring:
The perf board has continuous copper connection on the back of each row, which is why some of my wires are on other columns. |
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It's rather about the length of the ground cable and how it's connected: everything on that board should be as short as possible without external loops. Don't know if that's the problem but one my project (not LED directly but SPI communication for HyperSPI) didn't work because I use similar loop despite the other cables were short. And everything that is directly connected to the level shifter (even GND and +5V in this section) is low current type: even thin signal cable can be use here. |
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@awawa-dev ah, okay. I will try that and report back. Thanks!! |
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@awawa-dev I think I just now read your last message correctly. I misread it and made everything running from the board to the power supply as short as possible. And I even ran all individual grounds straight to the power supply. But, what I think you're saying is to make all connections on the board very short so you cannot see a loop in the wire, and this is easier achieved with a smaller gauge wire. I think I may need to unsolder board-to-board connections to try to improve the length. Nevertheless, this is where I'm at still. IMG_1276.mp4 |
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If nothing helps, then you will have to slowly go back to the point where the set worked. I do not know if anything has changed in the configuration except this board, what should be taken into account? If you have any LEDs left, maybe connect a very small section directly to the board (a few LEDs is enough) using board's +5v/ground/data line to test it (of course the LED strip power supply is still providing the power there)? |
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I ordered some solid core hookup wire and will try to recreate the exact setup I had on the breadboard. I will also try hooking a few LED up to the board to test that way as well. Thank you for your continued support! |
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@awawa-dev I'm preparing my new layout and wondering which of these wiring diagrams you think is the best choice. 1) 1OE and GND from level shifter are connected to ESP GND. Then GND from ESP is soldered to LED GND and one wire goes to a single V- terminal. 2 All GND wires are going separately to the V- terminals. 3 Only the LED GND wire is going separately to the V- terminal. ESP and Level shifter are going as one wire. Does it even matter?? Thank you! |
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I'm planning on keeping my data wire from the level shifter and the +/- from the PSU no more than about 25cm. For the connections from the ESP to the level shifter, I'm going to solder everything on the back of the perf board with insulated (so I can pass over wires) 22 gauge solid copper wire. What do you think? |
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OK, that's good. So the board will be close to the LED power supply and the LED strip. My cables from level shifter data & power supply to the LED strip are even longer: around 55cm and it works. I like 3'rd option: it's very similar to my new setup. As you can see, even such clumsy electrical tracks on the prototype board worked for my old level shifter: https://hyperhdr.blogspot.com/2020/12/my-build-log-using-sk6812-rgbw-led.html#chapter3 and a similar solution is working in my new ones (SN74AHCT125N ) without a problem . |
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Okay cool. So, I'll try just having the LED be a separate gnd wire and the rest will be one wire from esp and level shifter going to gnd. Thanks! |
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I was looking at your setup on your blog link above again. I'm wondering if I shouldn't try to just mimic it exactly. Use the sacrificial pixel and the rectifier (do I need that with esp32?). What are your thoughts? Do you think the esp32/level shifter setup is better overall than using the pixel to shift the voltage? |
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Since this setup was built, I switched to the SN74AHCT125N, tested it extensively, used it on a daily basis, and I can say it's reliable. |
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Okay, thanks! I appreciate it. I'll stick with the SN74AHCT125N.
…On Tue, Feb 15, 2022 at 1:49 PM Awawa ***@***.***> wrote:
Since this setup was built, I switched to the SN74AHCT125N, tested it
extensively, used it on a daily basis, and I can say it's reliable.
Sacrificial pixel level shifter (LED driver like esp32/esp8266 is still
needed, works with both) was also good solution but SN74AHCT125N is more
"professional" ;) And you don't need to modify your HyperHDR LED geometry
scheme to include that single sacrificial LED in your configuration.
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@awawa-dev I'm back with some good news (mostly)! I got everything working again. The effects are working great and the USB grabber was working great. I watched some tests on YouTube and it all seemed to be working. But then I was poking around in the settings and clicked "Screen Capturing" under the advanced settings and hit allow even though I didn't know what it was for. Now I can only play effects and I am not getting anything mirroring the TV. When I hit "clear" in the HyperHDR bar the LEDs only turn off. |
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I think it's unrelated. That option is using web browser screen capturing mechanism and forwards the stream to HyperHDR as video source. But it's gone when you closed the browser. I see that your USB grabber doesn't work anymore. Not clear why: explanation should be in your HyperHDR logs. |
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@awawa-dev Ah, okay that's good to know. Let me grab the logs from HyperHDR then, if you wouldn't mind looking at them. Thank you! 2022-02-19T07:38:54.074Z [COMPONENTREG0] LED device: enabled |
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I'm sure that's the problem: |
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Ah! That was it! I went into system prefs and turned camera permission on. Everything is working now! I'm scared to transfer again to perf board now that everything is working again, but I've got to give it a shot |
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Transfer to the perf board was successful! Now to mount it to the frame and solder 🙏 |
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Looks very good! |
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Test of frame shows all is working after soldering! I reversed data direction in settings to match the orientation of the frame. Now to tidy up and mount! Thanks, @awawa-dev IMG_1384.mp4! |
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@awawa-dev I can't thank you enough for all your help. I'm finally done. I'm still absolutely blown away by how available you were during this whole process. A million thanks! |
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I always try to help if I see a serious approach to the subject on the other side. And you did a great job! Don't you mind if I use your connection diagram in HyperHDR's the wiki? |
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@awawa-dev Thank you! I showed the wife and kids this morning and they were blown away. It's so fun! And yes, for sure use my diagram. I'll attach a cleaned-up version. Let me know if you want the .fzz file to tweak. |
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Thank you :) It's perfect. |
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I'm planning my setup and wanted to get some advice.
I bought a late 2012 Mac Mini since Rpi's are all out of stock. I'm planning on using my Yamaha RX-A2A receiver's HDMI out as the video source. And I'm planning on using SK6812 LEDs.
What other hardware do I need to complete my setup? I've been looking around, but I'm not as experienced as I need to be to decipher all the options.
I want to get the lowest latency possible and be able to use a 4k HDR HDCP coming from the Yamaha receiver.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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