Snapshot. It's a functional version. BUT there's a bug:

- I'll be splitting this creating a duplicate because I simply can't
achieve the structure I'm looking for because of this bug
docsifyjs/docsify#865

docs/Your-First-Print/01-get-started-1st-layer.md

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+# Get Started
+
+## Calibrate The 1st Layer Height
+
+_You’re here because you have issue with your prints not sticking to your bed or because your nozzle rams into your bed seemingly trying to destroy you JellyBOX._
+
+_In this guide, you’ll learn how to calibrate the 1st layer height on your JellyBOX Original or 2._
+
+_Calibrating the 1st layer height is a necessary prerequisite to any successful print. This procedure will take you probably about half an hour the first time, and about 5 minutes in subsequent runs._
+
+[filename](01-get-started.md ':include')

docs/Your-First-Print/01-get-started-1st-print.md

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+# Get Started
+
+## Your First Print
+
+_You’re here because you have either just built your JellyBOX or you have inherited one already built and now you want to print something, but don't know how._
+
+_In this guide, you’ll learn how to calibrate the 1st layer height on your JellyBOX Original or 2 and launch a print from an SD card._
+
+_Calibrating the 1st layer height is a necessary prerequisite to any successful print. This procedure will take you probably about half an hour the first time, and about 5 minutes in subsequent runs._
+
+[filename](01-get-started.md ':include')

docs/Your-First-Print/01-get-started.md

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-# Get Started
-
 ## How the Z Probe Determines a Successful Print
 
 When you print, it is imperative that the model - the object you're printing - is **stuck to the build plate**; only to be peeled off once the print is finished.

docs/Your-First-Print/03-calibrate-first-layer-1st-layer.md

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+[filename](-calibrate-first-layer.md ':include')

docs/Your-First-Print/03-calibrate-first-layer-1st-print.md

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+[filename](-calibrate-first-layer.md ':include')

docs/Your-First-Print/03-calibrate-first-layer.md

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-[filename](-calibrate-first-layer.md ':include')
-[filename](-print-stuff.md ':include')
+# Calibrate the First Layer Height
+_In the previous section, we positioned the Z probe so that it senses the build plate before the nozzle hits it. Trouble is, the [nozzle is now too high](00-nozzle-too-high.md) for printing. We need to precisely bring it closer to the build plate._
+
+## 🎥 Video Walkthrough (4 min with narration)
+
+<div class="videoWrapper">
+    <!-- Copy & Pasted from YouTube -->
+    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/utCk_CkYjc8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
+</div>
+
+- Your JellyBOX will preheat a bit, perform auto bed leveling sequence, and then pause and pre-heat to the final print temperatures.
+- When it's ready to go, it will beep. At this point, press the encoder knob to actually start printing.
+- While it's printing, use the Live Adjust Z Height function to adjust the first layer height to your liking.
+- You inspect the resulting 1st layer and repeat as needed.
+
+## The Elusive Perfect 1st Layer :id=perfect_1st
+
+?> The **Perfect First Layer** is moderately squished with no visible gaps between parallel lines.
+
+![first-layer-poster.png](assets/first-layer-poster.png)
+
+😡 If the nozzle is **too high**, the filament will not stick and your object will peel off or warp.
+
+🤗 If the nozzle is **just right**, the filament will stick to the build plate, and the object will not be too difficult to remove once finished.
+
+😡 If the nozzle is **too low**, the filament will not be able to flow out of the nozzle. This will at best result in oversized, hard to remove 1st layer. At worst, you will clog your hotend.
+
+### First Layer Height and Print Warping
+Squishing the first layer more will get you a better adhesion while making the first layer oversized. Squishing it less will get you a more 'precise' print, but with a higher risk or the object warping, lifting, and getting completely messed up.
+
+## Cold Bed Users Only:
+If you have cold bed, put some blue tape on the build plate if it's still bare aluminum.
+
+![tape.png](assets/tape.png)
+
+## Step 1 - Insert the filament
+
+Unlock the feeder
+
+<video loop muted autoplay playsinline controls>
+<source src="http://www.imade3d.com/awesome-assets/load_filament_2.mp4" />
+Please use a modern browser like Firefox or Chrome to see this helpful video.
+</video>
+
+Insert some PLA filament with a sharpened tip and lock the feeder. (PLA is the filament that came with your JellyBOX.)
+
+<video loop muted autoplay playsinline controls>
+<source src="http://www.imade3d.com/awesome-assets/load_filament_1.mp4" />
+Please use a modern browser like Firefox or Chrome to see this helpful video.
+</video>
+
+![load_filament-0001.png](assets/load_filament-0001.png)
+
+<video loop muted autoplay playsinline controls>
+<source src="http://www.imade3d.com/awesome-assets/load_filament_3.mp4" />
+Please use a modern browser like Firefox or Chrome to see this helpful video.
+</video>
+
+![filament-inserted.png](assets/filament-inserted.png)
+
+
+?> **New Workflow Alert for Experienced JellyBOX Users:** If you used JellyBOX in the past, you may remember you used to push the filament all the way in by hand. This is no longer necessary - you only have to insert the filament into the PTFE tube. JellyBOX now purges the nozzle before every print and ejects the filament fully when a print is done. This means you do not normally have to heat up the nozzle to switch filament color between prints for example! If you still load the filament like you're used to, nothing's gonna break... you'll just waste filament.
+
+
+## Step 2 - Launch the (Calibration) Print
+
+To fine-tune the 1st layer height, you need to actually print something. We have carefully designed and custom-sliced a calibration print for you.
+
+You can find the `Calibrate PLA 1st Layer Print` file on the SD card that came with your JellyBOX.
+
+Alternatively:
+- [⬇️ Download the latest Calibrate PLA 1st Layer Print.][download_calibrate]
+- [⬇️ Or download the whole latest SD card][download_sd] (includes the print)
+
+[download_calibrate]: https://github.com/raw/IMADE3D/JellyBOX-Essentials/master/GCODES%20-%20ready%20to%20print/1-Your%20First%20Print/PLA/First%20PLA%20print%20-%20210x45.gcode
+
+[download_sd]: go.imade3d.com/sd-card
+
+[//]: # ( #TODO put the latest calibration script to ftp and re-link. check start gcode.)
+
+### Print from SD
+
+1. Use the LCD rotary encoder to launch the Calibration Print (`Print from SD > JellyBOX-Essentials > SCRIPTS - gcode scripts > PLA`).
+   - Insert the SD card
+   - Scroll all the way down (clockwise) to find `Print from SD`
+   - Navigate the folder structure to find the PLA Calibration Print.
+
+   ![calibrate-print-launch.png](assets/calibrate-print-launch.png)
+
+2. The JellyBOX will run the bed leveling sequence and save the bed leveling data to memory.
+3. The JellyBOX will pre-heat to printing temperature.
+4. The JellyBOX will will BEEP.
+
+> 🔔 **The JellyBOX will will BEEP when it's ready for you to initiate the next step.**
+
+## Step 3 - Observe and live-adjust
+
+Once you hear the beep, click the lcd controller once to initiate the actual print.
+
+![print-gif](assets/calibrate-1st-layer-height-z-probe-target.gif)
+
+### Use the controller to lower the nozzle
+
+Rotate the LCD knob while the JellyBOX is printing.
+- Counter-clockwise is down and clockwise is up
+- There's a small delay (up to 0.8s) between your rotating and the change in height. We recommend to initially try about 360° rotation and see what happens.
+- Note that the adjustment steps are very small - fractions of a millimeter. One whole 360° rotation of the knob gives you only about 0.2mm (0.008'') of Z adjustment.
+
+<details>
+<summary>
+I don't think the live adjustment is working. How do I test it?
+</summary>
+
+It's best to verify that the live adjusting works by **touch** as the individual movements are too small to see by a naked eye.
+
+1. Start the SD print as outlined above.*
+   - _* If you're using firmware version jb-marlin-3.x and higher, you do not have to start a print, which has the advantage of less noise._
+1. Then, lightly hold the Z rod with one hand while you rotate the LCD knob up and down.
+   - You should feel tiny pulses in the rod associated with very small movements.
+</details>
+
+
+[//]: # ( #TODO add an image with round arrows - and also new version with the nozzle showing. Maybe re-edit the video???)
+
+Parallel lines should be all well connected with no visible gaps.
+
+![nozzle2-high.png](assets/nozzle2-high.png)
+
+![nozzle1-good.png](assets/nozzle1-good.png)
+
+![nozzle3-low.png](assets/nozzle3-low.png)
+
+If you forgot, review the [Perfect 1st Layer Height][#perfect_1st] section for details.
+
+ 🔁 Repeat as needed. You may need to run the script multiple times until you reach the perfect first layer.
+
+## (Step 4) Save the Calibration Settings; Only for firmware jb-marlin-3.X and newer
+
+!> If you run jb-marlin-3.X, you need to save the settings, or your  calibration will be lost when the JellyBOX is turned off.
+
+`Configuration > Save Settings`
+
+<details>
+<summary>To Save or Not To Save?</summary>
+
+Older versions of JellyBOX firmware up to JB-Marlin-2.X save the 1st layer calibration values automatically.
+
+This has slight negative impact on the permanent memory lifespan, but, more importantly, it's uncommon.
+
+Most RepRap style 3D printers require explicit saving - this way the Live Adjustment can be used for impromptu tweaks in the spur of the moment without affecting the printer settings.
+</details>
+
+## It's Calibrated 📐
+
+🎊 _Congrats! You have successfully calibrated your first layer height._ 🎊
+
+- **I am a beginner. I have just finished building my JellyBOX or haven't printed much before.**
+  - Bravely proceed to the next section [Your First Print](04-first-print) (and all the subsequent prints)
+- **I've been printing for a while. I just wanted to re-calibrate my first layer.**
+  - If you only needed to Calibrate your First Layer Height, you're done, really. Get back to 3D Printing All the Things.
+  ![print-all-things](assets/3d-print-all-the-things.png ':size=100%')