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livable-sheds-steps.md

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Steps towards building a livable shed

This file sucks!

ONE

  1. Foundation: laying about 5 inches of gravel or pour a slab
  2. Utilities: wait to get your shed pad graded. Then proceed with connecting utilities like a composting toilet or porta-potty service and any HVAC needs - electrician for internet lines and electricity, and you may need plumbing services as well. Utilities and outlets on your walls need to be added early
  3. Get Rid Of Moisture: raise your shed floor level using blocks or treated plywood - cover-coat the underneath with a thick deck oil to keep the wood healthy and prevent moisture from ruining it.
  4. Insulate: too much heat or too cold - use a spray can of foam to insulate the seams of your shed - focus on climate control - insulation of the floors might also come in handy
  5. Zoning: the zoning code jurisdictions dictate the site where you can build a shed. They also give laws on the size of a building and the number of buildings on a particular property. So, it'll be illegal to start building your shed without getting approved
  6. HOA: Different cities have their specific bylaws of HOA on the size and structure of outbuildings - avoid HOAs! I would like to have neighbors close but not that many neighbors.

TWO

  1. Set A Level Pad And Grade For Drainage: 4-6 inches of ¾" gravel - Have the gravel base extend in all directions about 1-2 feet beyond the footprint of the shed. Make sure the space is totally level and compact - double for me for extension and back porch
  2. Make Utility Connections: If you pre-buried your connections, uncover the connection points, and connect them. Test everything before you close up the walls
  3. Moisture On The Bottom Of The Shed: pay extra for plywood and make sure it is treated - have your shed on blocks just high enough for you to crawl under so you can access things - Having access and air flow is really great and super important to keep your floor dry and rot free. I'd also apply a thick coat of exterior deck oil based paint to the underside of the shed to seal the wood from moisture.
  4. Shed Framing: request your shed to be done with 2×4's so all your building materials will work (insulation, electrical boxes, etc which are all sized for 2×4 cavities) - If your walls aren't framed with 2×4's then you might have to figure out alternatives to every other step coming up - If you can't order the shed to have 2×4's then you'll need to build the wall inwards
  5. Next put in your electrical lines, water lines, internet connections, any HVAC needs etc - also consider putting outlets and lights on the outside of the shed - I'd Suggest Taking A Video And Photos Of The Walls So You Can Remember Where Things Are
  6. Seal up the cracks: these sheds aren't very air tight - The space where the roof meets the top of the wall and around the soffit/facia is usually so poorly done you can see day light - start with sealing everything with a good silicone caulk. Follow all the junctions, seams, and transition points. First seal from the outside, then seal again from the inside. I'd also caulk where the walls meet the floor, the corners and inside the framing where the studs meet the sheathing - also move to spray can foam and fill in any hard to reach gaps - keep air and water out and the bugs at bay.
  7. Insulate Your Shed Walls And Ceiling: You have two main options for insulation spray foam or bat insulation. Bat insulation is a good option, easy to install and not that expensive. You can get bats that are sized right for your wall cavities to minimize the amount of cutting you need to do. The other option, and the one that I'd recommend, is closed cell spray foam. I specifically suggest closed cell spray foam because it is also a great vapor and air barrier. Spray foam is also a very high R value so you'll keep your house hot or cold longer with the same amount of wall thickness - talking a few extra hundred-dollar difference
  8. Insulate Your Shed Floors: insulate your shed floor or else you'll have a condensing surface and your feet will be cold on the floors. You can do this by insulating under the floor on the bottom of the shed or laying foamboard on the floor and putting a new layer of plywood on top.If it was me, I'd do both
  9. Drywall, Floors And Trim: finishing with dry wall because it's cheap. You want to make sure you are sealing all the joints and transitions of the dry wall for air tightness. This is because if you make this air tight, no water vapor can enter the wall cavity and hit a cold surface to condense, build up moisture and cause mold - see Air Barriers—Airtight Drywall Approach link above - put up your drywall, spackled and sanded your joints, go ahead and trim out your doors and windows, then paint the whole thing. Install your floors at this point, then add your baseboards to hide the rough edges of the floors
  10. Drop in any cabinets, counters and other finishes

THREE (Summary):

  1. Create detailed interior plans
  2. Decide on the interior materials
  3. Rough-in the electrical and plumbing systems
  4. Order electrical, plumbing, and mechanical inspections.
  5. Add insulation to the walls and ceiling
  6. Install floor covering
  7. Hang and finish the drywall